Danielle Oteri's Italy
Danielle Oteri's Italy
Ep. 21: The Best Cooking Classes in Tuscany and Puglia
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Ep. 21: The Best Cooking Classes in Tuscany and Puglia

Cooking Classes Worth Traveling For with Pamela Sheldon Johns & Giovanella Russo
Masseria Battaglini in Martina Franca Photo credit: Jessica Scranton

Cooking classes are now on nearly every Italy itinerary—and for good reason. Food is one of the most intimate ways to understand Italy’s culture and traditions. But as tourism to Italy has exploded, so has the number of cooking classes—many of them aggressively mediocre experiences offering pizza, pasta, and gelato in every city.

In this episode, I explore what it means to take a meaningful cooking class in Italy—one that connects you to a region’s real foodways, people, and stories. You’ll hear from two women who offer exactly that:

Pamela Sheldon Johns has been living and cooking in Tuscany for over 20 years. She has written a large pile of books on Italian cuisine and teaches classes rooted in cucina povera. Pamela was running her own cooking school in Santa Barbara, California, when she started leading culinary tours to Italy in 1992. In 2001, she made the leap, bought a farmhouse, and moved her family to the Tuscan countryside, the beauty of which still amazes her.

Poggio Etrusco in Montepulciano
Pamela Sheldon Johns

Giovanella Russo runs Masseria Battaglini in Puglia, where she teaches traditional regional recipes as well as historic dishes passed down from the Neapolitan monarchy. After a career in Naples’ corporate world, she now grows lentils and chickpeas and hosts guests from around the world in her trullo. Giovanella has “big baronessa energy,” and a cooking class with her is the experience of a lifetime.

Giovanella and I (and Lenù) chatting while I enjoyed a mild food coma from the hot cream cornetti
Giovanella Russo Photo credit: Jessica Scranton

We also touch on:

  • Why “pizza and gelato” classes are everywhere—and why I don’t like them

  • How regional food in Italy differs dramatically

  • Why tiramisu isn’t actually a traditional dessert

  • How to choose a cooking class that gives you a deep cultural experience

If you're planning a trip and want to have an experience that’s truly local and memorable, this episode is for you.

Listen to discover what to look for in a cooking class—and why these two women are my go-to recommendations.

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00:00 Introduction to Italian Cooking Classes

00:39 The Evolution of Italian Cuisine

01:05 The Importance of Regional Specialties

01:52 Meet Pamela Sheldon Johns

03:10 Pamela's Tuscan Lifestyle

07:48 The Shift in Tuscan Food Culture

16:10 Meet Giovanella Russo

18:25 Giovanella’s Culinary Journey

22:01 Traditional Pugliese Recipes You Don’t Know

29:22 Conclusion and Additional Recommendations

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