I loved this and learned, again, so much from you Danielle. Merci!
Cloisters are Wonderful! There's one on top of the Mont St Michel and in the Dordogne we visited the one next to the church in Cadouin (that used to have a pilgrimage for what was thought to be Jesus' shroud until x-rays showed details that proved it wasn't...).
I now live in the Anjou, where le Roy René who was King of Naples and Sicily, was only a Duc. He was also Comte/Count of Aix en Provence, Lorraine and Bar, which is now called Bar-le-Duc. Pretty influential too.
There's a fantastic story that the Normans conquered Southern Italy because, as Normans, they were of course devoted to Mont St. Michel. They were in Puglia on pilgrimage to see the cave of St Michel, and then a local prince asked for their help expelling the Greeks. Really, they were mercenaries (hired goons), but the warrior angel story definitely is a better story!
That's so interesting! Of course they would want to visit that cave. The threads of the stories all cross/meld and make a tapestry.
Do you know about the more than 100m Apocalypse tapestry that's now in a especially made room in the Château d'Angers ? It was 'ordered' by le Roi René and later transported to Aix to be used at a wedding (maybe to surround the reception...?). It got defined as a Unesco heritage piece a couple of years ago.
Thank you so much for this link to your article about your time in proximity to those unicorn tapestries and the ongoing research about them. You have such a fabulous writing style - it swept into the building and into meeting Howie who was fascinating. I hope someone tried to follow the ideas he put together.
At first I thought the link was about the unicorn tapestries at the Cluny museum in Paris. If you've not seen them, I think you'd really enjoy it!
This was so good, so thoroughly researched, and so informative! I also really appreciate your rants and it's hard to believe there's a tour operator who refuses to enter the churches, yet with that attitude, it's probably better that they do skip entering a consecrated space than bringing in such energy. Seeing Monreale without vising the cattedrale? Or Otranto, or Amalfi, or Assisi, just to think of a few unforgettable churches, - not to mention the glories of Florence, Rome, Venice, or Milano! The churches, especially the Chiesa Madre, are usually the heart of a community. There is no parsing of Italian culture and its Catholicism (the food, the art, the festivals, the piazze, the people - basically everything), and to neglect such a synergy is...odd. In any case, thank you, again, for all this context and history!
Your rants are the best part, keeping it real. There's so much frou-frou out there about Italy, so I appreciate the honesty. And yes, I imagine that must have been hard to hide astonishment at such blatant obtuseness. It brought to mind an unpleasant experience once working with a special ed teacher who clearly did not like special ed students, and it was like, "But you chose this work, or no?" In any case, I look forward to all the episodes and learning so much that isn't otherwise readily available, thank you.
The idea that so many hotels, museums, and even “must-see” artworks are tied to the afterlife of monasteries changes the whole trip. You are not just visiting pretty old buildings. You are walking through wealth, faith, politics, theft, silence, and survival.
Also, the San Domenico note is exactly why churches belong on an Italy itinerary.
I loved this and learned, again, so much from you Danielle. Merci!
Cloisters are Wonderful! There's one on top of the Mont St Michel and in the Dordogne we visited the one next to the church in Cadouin (that used to have a pilgrimage for what was thought to be Jesus' shroud until x-rays showed details that proved it wasn't...).
I now live in the Anjou, where le Roy René who was King of Naples and Sicily, was only a Duc. He was also Comte/Count of Aix en Provence, Lorraine and Bar, which is now called Bar-le-Duc. Pretty influential too.
There's a fantastic story that the Normans conquered Southern Italy because, as Normans, they were of course devoted to Mont St. Michel. They were in Puglia on pilgrimage to see the cave of St Michel, and then a local prince asked for their help expelling the Greeks. Really, they were mercenaries (hired goons), but the warrior angel story definitely is a better story!
That's so interesting! Of course they would want to visit that cave. The threads of the stories all cross/meld and make a tapestry.
Do you know about the more than 100m Apocalypse tapestry that's now in a especially made room in the Château d'Angers ? It was 'ordered' by le Roi René and later transported to Aix to be used at a wedding (maybe to surround the reception...?). It got defined as a Unesco heritage piece a couple of years ago.
I've never seen that one for myself, and I am long overdue for a visit to France. It's my second favorite country. :) I'm a tapestry nerd, so this one is a must-see for me. https://www.theparisreview.org/blog/2020/11/18/the-secret-of-the-unicorn-tapestries
Thank you so much for this link to your article about your time in proximity to those unicorn tapestries and the ongoing research about them. You have such a fabulous writing style - it swept into the building and into meeting Howie who was fascinating. I hope someone tried to follow the ideas he put together.
At first I thought the link was about the unicorn tapestries at the Cluny museum in Paris. If you've not seen them, I think you'd really enjoy it!
https://www.musee-moyenage.fr/en/building-collections/the-collection-database/the-lady-and-the-unicorn-tapestries
If you get a chance to come to Angers as well to see the Apocalypse, do let me know.
This was so good, so thoroughly researched, and so informative! I also really appreciate your rants and it's hard to believe there's a tour operator who refuses to enter the churches, yet with that attitude, it's probably better that they do skip entering a consecrated space than bringing in such energy. Seeing Monreale without vising the cattedrale? Or Otranto, or Amalfi, or Assisi, just to think of a few unforgettable churches, - not to mention the glories of Florence, Rome, Venice, or Milano! The churches, especially the Chiesa Madre, are usually the heart of a community. There is no parsing of Italian culture and its Catholicism (the food, the art, the festivals, the piazze, the people - basically everything), and to neglect such a synergy is...odd. In any case, thank you, again, for all this context and history!
Thank you for appreciating the rant! Now imagine trying to keep a straight face while this person was saying these things so as to remain collegial….
Your rants are the best part, keeping it real. There's so much frou-frou out there about Italy, so I appreciate the honesty. And yes, I imagine that must have been hard to hide astonishment at such blatant obtuseness. It brought to mind an unpleasant experience once working with a special ed teacher who clearly did not like special ed students, and it was like, "But you chose this work, or no?" In any case, I look forward to all the episodes and learning so much that isn't otherwise readily available, thank you.
Thank you Carmen 🙏🏻💖
This was fascinating!
I had no idea about Napoleons assault and dismantling of the monasteries and convents.
Gives me a whole different perspective on the Louvre 😳.
Yup, the British Museum is always taking the heat but the Louvre has a lot to answer for too!
What a terrific article. Thank you.
This gives such a different way to look at Italy.
The idea that so many hotels, museums, and even “must-see” artworks are tied to the afterlife of monasteries changes the whole trip. You are not just visiting pretty old buildings. You are walking through wealth, faith, politics, theft, silence, and survival.
Also, the San Domenico note is exactly why churches belong on an Italy itinerary.